Tracing Wine to Its Ancient Roots with Arpa Boghozian
Long before Napa, Bordeaux, or Tuscany became synonymous with great wine, people cultivated grapes and fermented wine.
At a recent Sips and Bites event, UC Davis Ph.D. candidate Arpa Boghozian guided guests through that deeper history. The tasting explored four ancient wine cultures, Lebanon, Greece, Georgia, and Armenia, pairing each wine with the traditions and techniques that shaped it.
Boghozian, who researches grapevine red blotch virus, designed the entire program herself, bringing together archaeology, culture, and sensory exploration into a single evening.
From Ancient Civilizations to Modern Glasses
Wine has two major ancient origins. The first is China, where fermented grain-and-fruit beverages were produced as early as 9,000 years ago. The second is the Caucasus region, where Vitis vinifera was domesticated and where archaeologists have discovered the earliest evidence of grape-based wine, dating back to around 6,000-5,000 BCE.
The evening focused on the latter. From this region, wine traditions spread across the Mediterranean through ancient Greek and Phoenician trade networks, eventually shaping vineyards throughout Europe.
The wines were served with lavash, pita, and fresh UC Davis Olio Nuovo olive oil, foods as rooted in the ancient world as the wines they accompanied. As Boghozian put it, "Food and wine pairings are easy when you think about where the foods and wines come from."
Ancient Roots Shaped by Empires
Lebanon's winemaking history stretches back nearly 7,000 years and reflects the influence of the civilizations that passed through the region. Phoenician traders spread viticulture across the Mediterranean. Later, Ottoman rule restricted winemaking largely to Christian communities for sacramental use. French colonial rule between the World Wars introduced European grape varieties that remain common today.
That layered history appeared in the first wine of the evening, Seven from Batroun Mountains. The blend combines three varieties indigenous to Lebanon, Merweh, Obeidi, and Youssfi, with four international grapes, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat of Alexandria. Each was harvested separately before blending. The wine was bright and aromatic, with notes of mango, peach, gooseberry, citrus, and acacia.
Although Lebanon borders the warm Mediterranean coast, many vineyards sit high in the mountains. The altitude brings hot days and cool nights, creating strong diurnal shifts that help preserve freshness and structure in the wines.
Savatiano and the History of Retsina
Ancient Greece played a major role in the spread of wine culture across Europe. Greek traders transported Vitis vinifera throughout the Mediterranean, helping establish vineyards in regions that later became global wine powers.
Today, Greece is home to more than 200 indigenous grape varieties. One of the most historically important and widely planted varieties, dating back 2,500 years, is Savatiano, the grape used in the evening’s retsina from Markou Vineyards.
Retsina also has ancient origins. Pine resin was historically used to seal and coat clay amphorae, helping protect wine from air and spoilage during storage and transport. Over time, the resin imparted its distinctive aroma to the wine, eventually becoming a defining feature of the style. Today, Aleppo pine resin is intentionally added during fermentation for aroma and historical continuity.
The Markou is a rare 100 percent single-varietal expression, with only 10,000 bottles produced from vines planted in the 1950s in the Attica region. Boghozian described it as the lightest retsina she's tasted, fruity and dry, with a subtle pine note rather than the aggressive pine-sol quality some retsinas can tip into.
“It's a wine worth trying at least once,” she said.
Qvevri and 8,000 Years of Georgian Winemaking Culture
Few places have a deeper connection to wine than Georgia. Archaeological evidence suggests grape cultivation there dates back at least 8,000 years.
The country is home to more than 500 indigenous grape varieties and is known for its traditional qvevri winemaking method. These large clay vessels are buried underground, allowing grapes to ferment and age at stable temperatures.
In 2013, UNESCO recognized traditional qvevri winemaking as part of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Georgia also has a long tradition of orange wines, made by fermenting white grapes together with their skins, seeds, and stems rather than separating the juice.
The Georgian wine poured that evening came from the Kakheti region and featured the grape Saperavi, a teinturier variety with both red skins and red flesh. The wine showed a deep ruby color and aromas of blackberry, black mulberry, and cherry.
The Oldest Winery in the World
The evening’s final stop was Armenia, another cradle of ancient winemaking.
In 2007, archaeologists discovered what is now considered the world’s oldest known winery in the Areni-1 cave complex in Armenia’s Vayots Dzor province. Dating to roughly 4100 BCE, the site contained fermentation vats, storage vessels, and drinking cups used in early winemaking. Excavations conducted in collaboration with UCLA’s Cotsen Institute of Archaeology also uncovered the world’s oldest known leather shoe.
The final wine of the evening was Karasi from Zorah Wines, made from the indigenous Areni grape. The winery was founded by an Italian-Armenian family who repatriated to Armenia and set out to revive the country’s ancient winemaking traditions.
The grapes are grown at roughly 1,400 meters above sea level, fermented in concrete tanks, and aged for twelve months in traditional clay vessels called karasi, then aged for six months in the bottle. Though ancient in origin, the result was vivid and expressive, with dark berry flavors, herbal notes, and a distinctive black pepper finish.
Boghozian traced Armenia’s wine culture from the vast Urartu Kingdom, which spread indigenous Armenian grape varieties across a wide territory, to the country’s early conversion to Christianity, when wine became central to both sacrament and daily life.
During the Soviet era, Armenia was largely designated for brandy production, and much of its viticulture shifted toward high-yield grapes for distillation. While some traditional varieties were lost, many centuries-old varieties survived in remote vineyards and small plots. Today, Armenia remains one of the few wine regions in the world largely free of phylloxera, a devastating root pest that wiped out most of Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century.
Living History in Every Glass
Through four wines and thousands of years of history, Boghozian reminded guests that wine is more than a beverage. It is a living cultural record that connects ancient traditions, modern research, and the next generation of scholars shaping the future of wine.
As Robert Mondavi Institute Director Ned Spang noted in his opening remarks, “Events like this showcase education and fantastic students like Arpa,” and reflect how the institute brings together research, culture, and curiosity through food and wine. Learn more about upcoming events at the Robert Mondavi Institute here.
The wines from the evening are available locally at Corti Brothers: Seven (Batroun Mountains, Lebanon), Retsina Markou (Markou Vineyards, Greece), and Saperavi (Chateau Mukrani, Georgia). The Areni (Zorah Karasi, Armenia) is available online at My Wine Plus. UC Davis Olio Nuovo Olive Oil, also featured at the event, is available at UC Davis Stores while supplies last.
Kaylianne Jordan is a senior studying Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis. She has a background in culinary arts and a passion for sustainable farming and enjoys exploring the connections between agriculture, winemaking, and community. Outside of college, she loves trying out new recipes, and discovering local food spots.